Using Canon EF lenses on other cameras?

August 18, 2009

Silly question really. You know that all the EF (and EF-S) lenses do not have an aperture ring so it will have to be  maximum aperture, surely? Well not necesssarily. It is possible to set the aperture of an EF lens but only on a Canon camera and then probably only a digital one with a depth of field preview button. What you do is to mount the required lens, and here it’s only sensible to use a prime lens, turn the camera on to Av mode, set the required aperture and then press the depth of field preview button and while holding that button depressed remove the lens from the camera. The aperture you selected will then remain until you re-mount the lens on a Canon EOS camera and turn that camera on. Whether this has any application to your photography I don’t know. You certainly would not take your Canon dSLR along to set the aperture of a lens to use on another camera! But using Canon EF lenses on other cameras can be useful. Here are two that I use.

The first one is to set the aperture of my Canon 135 mm f2.8 Soft Focus lens to f4 and then use it mounted on one of my Micro Four Thirds cameras. The Soft Focus ring has a very pleasing effect at f4 and the field of view on the camera of 270 mm produces a lovely tight head shot which I use in soft natural light with the camera on a tripod.

The second is to set an aperture of around f5.6 on my Tamron 90 mm f2.8 macro lens. I don’t actually see much point in buying a macro lens for my Micro Four Thirds cameras as I have this Tamron plus a Nikon 105 mm AI lens. Using the Tamron lets me approach jumpy insects from a distance. Obviously there’s no changing the aperture on-site (as there would be with the Nikon lens that has an aperture ring).

In both cases I use my Canon EF to Micro Four Thirds adapter. No information passes from lens to camera and manual focus is necessary but metering works in A mode. With all “foreign” lenses it’s always best to set metering to spot or centre-weighted.


Micro Four Thirds Camera System

August 16, 2009

The Four Thirds consortium (Olympus, Panasonic, FujiFilm, Leica,  Sanyo, Sigma and Kodak) proposed and developed an open camera system based on a digital sensor with a diagonal measurement half that of the 35 mm film frame but in a 4:3 aspect ratio with provision for aspect ratios of 3:2 and 16:9 to co-exist. To some extent this mirrors the standard specification of a compact camera but at the time of the launch of the first Four Thirds camera, the Olympus E-1 in November 2003, the Four Thirds sensor at 18 x 13.5 mm was around 9 times larger than the sensor used in most compact cameras. It is 35% smaller than the APS-C sensor used in the majority of digital SLR cameras and about half the size of a full-frame digital SLR. The smaller sensor size allowed for smaller and lighter cameras and lenses. The E-1 was followed by the E-300 and E-500 and the E-330, the latter being the first dSLR to offer “live view” with an articulated LCD. It is a “milestone camera” in the sense that he Live View has subsequently been implemented by all dSLR manufacturers but never better. Following on, Panasonic produced two excellent cameras – DMC-L1 and DMC-L10 – that did not sell very well and Olympus continued with it’s range adding sensor-based image stabilisation in some models. I have an E-330 and  bought an E-520 (one of the image-stabilised ones) but sold it to buy a Panasonic G1 of which more later.

Olympus has produced some superb lenses for the Four Thirds system. Panasonic has made some excellent Leica-designed lenses and Sigma has adapted many of its best lenses for the system but while the Olympus professional-series cameras are applauded and the entry-level ones are appreciated by novices there has been the feeling in the professional photographic press that the system has been waiting for a better sensor or perhaps rather a sensor more finely tuned to the concept. One or two respected commentators wondered if Four Thirds would survive in the digital SLR market.

In August 2008 Olympus and Panasonic announced Micro Four Thirds. This system does away with the mirror-box from the camera design, has permanent Live View, has a smaller lens mount and has a flange back distance about half that of the original Four Thirds. And to prove it, two months later along comes the Panasonic G1 which, although it looks like a dSLR, has a very high quality electronic viewfinder with an articulated large LCD screen and can use most if not all Four Thirds lenses via an adapter. It comes with the first Micro Four Thirds lens, Panasonic’s version of the 14-45 mm “kit” lens and small and light as promised.

Though I didn’t get one until July 2009, the G1 is what I had wished the Panasonic FZ-50 that I bought in 2006 to be rather than what it was.  The FZ-50 had a 35-420 mm (equivalent)  non-interchangeable zoom lens designed by Leica, full manual control, an articulated LCD and an electronic viewfinder that was just about usable. It produced very good pictures in normal light and although the sensor was 40% larger than that of its predecessor, there was a 25% increase in the number of pixels and the amount of noise generated or the efforts of the noise-reduction software to suppress it were such that images taken at ISO 800 or more were mostly unusable. Such a shame as it was a fine camera let down by its image processing. But here with the G1 is a camera that has a really good electronic viewfinder – certainly sharp enough for manual focusing – a larger articulated LCD (albeit tethered at the side rather than at the bottom where it should be), the comparitively large Micro Four Thirds sensor and the ability to mount other lenses.

And it’s here that I think we are seeing a future big change in the market.  I don’t think that the traditional SLR in its digital form will pass away despite the archaic viewfinder system since this with the huge amount of lenses supporting it provides a complete photographic opportunity and solution. I do think that the only reason to buy into the dSLR Four Thirds market is the excellent lens support from Olympus, Panasonic and Sigma together with the good built-in software but it will perhaps never be the instinctive choice of professional photographers. Micro Four Thirds on the other hand is an exciting opportunity for both manufacturers and users. Panasonic’s GH1 as a hybrid between still and video photography has already made friends. Olympus’s E-P1 (the “New Pen”) is a style achievement as well as a great camera. Panasonic and Leica leave image stabilisation to the lenses. Olympus has it in the camera body. The E-P1 lacks an electronic viewfinder but who’se to say what might be next on their agenda? Panasonic is rumoured to be producing a camera the size of the E-P1 with  an optional EVF. Samsung has an undisclosed agenda and then there’s consortium members FujiFilm and Sanyo to think about. The Micro Four Thirds consortium also has a Unique Selling Proposition. There is already a central update service for firmware and software. Software is very important in the design of the system. For example, lenses are produced without the requirement for them to be 100% rectilinear. Whatever the specific peculiarities of a lens at any particular aperture – such as vignetting or barrel or pincushion distortion – these will be transmitted to the camera so that the firmware can manage them and create correctly processed jpeg images. And the lens profile is embedded in RAW files so that the converters supporting the lenses will present a uniform initial view. Firmware updates is a very important part of the system, giving perhaps a longer life to individual products that would otherwise be possible.

The result of a halved flange back distance has also had benefits in that new lenses can be mounted on Micro Four Thirds systems with adapters. Principal of these are the Leica M bayonet and M39 screw lenses plus their Voigtlaender counterparts and there are now adapters for specialist lenses from Zeiss and others to be mounted directly on Micro Four Thirds systems. RJ Camera in Shanghai has produced a range of mount adapters that are excellent and cheaper than branded varieties. I have a Four Thirds to Micro Four Thirds adapter without the electronic contacts (saving £100) that lets me use my Minolta MC/MD manual focus lenses on my G1 and E-P1 and I also have a Canon EOS to Micro Four Thirds adapter which in itself is not very useful as Canon EF lenses don’t have aperture rings but it does mean that all the lenses that I can mount on my Canon 5D can be mounted on Micro Four Thirds.

Micro Four Thirds is a bandwagon about to roll. Ignore it at yout peril!


35 mm Lens Mount Adapters

August 14, 2009

EOSLens1

This is the mount end of a lens that is about to be mounted on a Canon EOS camera. If you know this mount and have sharp eyes you will see that there are two things wrong with it. Firstly the electronic contacts are stuck on rather as an afterthought and secondly the lens is not an EOS lens. In fact this is a Nikkor 24-120 mm f3.5-5.6 D lens mounted on a Nikon to EOS EF adapter and the electronic contacts are there to fool a Canon EOS camera into thinking that the lens is an EOS f2 manual lens so that the camera will  beep and show an in-focus light when manual focus is correct. Because this lens has an aperture ring and a manual focusing ring we can mount it onto any camera body for which there is an adapter and use it in aperture-priority metering mode with manual focusing. And because the Canon EOS EF lens mount is both wide and has a short lens-to-sensor distance more lenses made for other mounts have adapters to it than any other lens mount. For example I have adapters for Nikon F, Contax/Yashica, Olympus OM, Leica R, Pentax K, Praktica Bayonet, Tamron Adaptall II and the early “universal screw” 42 mm mount popularised by Praktica and Pentax and many other manufacturers. These adapters all just consist of mechanical mounting rings in and out set into a ring that acts as a spacer to move the incoming lens flange back to the distance it had originally from it to the film plane. That distance is referred to here as the LFD and because of a requirement to make an adapter at least as deep as 1.5 mm the LFD of lenses to be attached to a Canon EOS EF  body must be the LFD of the Canon body at 44 mm plus that distance. So it’s lenses that had an original LFD of 45.5 mm or greater that can be mounted and function as they were originally designed to do. The list of these lens mounts starts with the Pentax K mount, being the closest,  and includes all those mentioned above plus the Contax N mount and lenses for Medium Format camera for which there are adapters to their 35 mm counterparts.

It is possible for adapters to be made for lenses that do not conform to the rule above by providing a lens or lenses in the adapters so that the adapter effectively becomes a teleconverter and thus can be mounted further back. For example when Canon commenced the EOS range of cameras and lenses, its excellent range of FC and FD mount lenses could only be used on EOS cameras with a special lensed mount that magnified the image by 1.2 times. Compared to modern teleconverters that have between 4 and 7 glass elements, this adapter had two elements and was dropped fairly soon after the EOS launch. I do have a lensed Canon FD to Canon EF adapter but it reduces image quality. I also have a Nikon F to Pentax K lensed adapter that is similarly inferior.

Of the main digital SLR manufacturers at August 2009, excepting Four Thirds for which see later, only two provide continuity for their manual focus lenses in the digital age. Pentax (with Samsung) gets the gold star because all digital Pentaxes will directly accept, meter and confirm focus of all manual lenses for 35 mm film right back to 1947 (the screw ones have an adapter that fits in the throat of the lens mount) and with an additional mount for the 645 lenses. Nikon gets the bronze star for the fact that the “enthusiast” and professional digital bodies (but not the “consumer” or entry-level ones) will mount and meter lenses from 1977 onwards. The only other mount for which these two cameras have adapters is Leica R. As with Canon, Minolta left its manual focus lenses unsupported when it moved to the AF mount that is now the Sony Alpha mount and there are several manufacturers of cameras and lenses for which no adapters are available to the 35 mm full frame or APS-C cropped digital formats. Konica A, Fujica X, Minolta MC/MD, Rolleiflex QB, Exacta, Topcon, Miranda bayonet and 44 mm screw, Mamiya CS and E – all mounts for which there were fine lenses – are lurking in or on the edge of the dustbin of history. I am hoping to persuade RJ Camera to produce an adapter for the Mamiya CS mount.

These lens mount adapters referred to are not expensive as they do not convey any electronic information. The ones without the focus-confirm chips vary in price from £6 to £13 and those with the chips are around £15 to £20 depending on quality. Note that these prices are for Chinese ones which do vary in quality. The RJ Camera ones are very good quality and I can recommend the ones sold by the “pixlamb” and “photobits42″ shops on eBay. Outside of eBay there are the Novoflex and CameraQuest ones that typically cost US $120 or more.

The Four Thirds consortium (Olympus, Panasonic, FujiFilm, Sanyo and Kodak) developed the open standard for the Four Thirds lens mount and to date there are cameras from Olympus, Panasonic and Leica using the mount. At 38.67 mm LFD it opens the possibility of adapters being available for Konica A, Canon FD (directly), Fujica X, Minolta MC/MD and AF, Rolleiflex QB, Exacta and Topcon. All of the adapters mentioned earlier are also available for the Four Thirds Mount so now a great part of sixty years of lens production (or what’s left of it) can be used on digital cameras.


Is a Panasonic LX3 better than a Ricoh GX100?

August 9, 2009

I was wondering about this so I borrowed an LX3 for yesterday when the sun was shining in London. It’s a nice camera and very Panasonic which means it does all the new Panny things and gets it right most of the time. The LX lens is brighter than the GX100 and more importantly much brighter at the long end (although the  lens stops at 60mm versus 72mm). There’s none of the nasty distortion that the LX2 had and the LCD is much better, better than the GX100’s. But no viewfinder other than an optional expensive 24mm optical one. An LX3 jpeg has as  much visible noise at ISO 800 as a GX100 one has at ISO 400. The GX100 video is really not worth using whereas the LX3 one is good. Both cameras feel good in the hand but the GX100 is better balanced. The lenses are about equal in quality despite the Leica badge on the LX3 lens. The GX100 takes more time to write Raw files which can be a disadvantage. The GX100 gains on price – £250 with the viewfinder versus £360 for the LX3 and that £110 would buy you the wide converter for the GX100. Even so, yes the LX3 is the better camera. But I’m  not going to upgrade to it from my GX100. Maybe Ricoh will produce a GX300 with a larger sensor (unlikely I think) or perhaps Panasonic will produce an LX4 with a plug-in viewfinder of the same quality as the one the G1 has (and which will probably be available for the upcoming GF1) and for either of these I might think about it.


A Quartet of Compacts

August 2, 2009

Often in the search for the ideal camera it is necessary to have more than one in a particular category. Where compact digital cameras are concerned there is certainly not a single one that will suffice (though some come quite close) and as it is in the nature of compact cameras that they are not very expensive then to have more than one is not a serious extravagance. What I require from a compact digital camera is that it should have a wide zoom range, produce good clean files in good and poor light without excessive noise or noise reduction, allow some control over settings and if possible let me shoot in RAW mode. What I have established is that to do this I need a trio of cameras but have actually ended up with a quartet. And here they are:

The cheap all-rounder

canon_a590is

This is the Canon PowerShot A590 IS. It is an entry-level compact with an 8 megapixel sensor, has a 2.5″ display and zooms (35mm equivalent) from 35mm to 140mm. It has a special attribute which is an optical viewfinder that covers the zoom range. There is no diopter adjustment for the viewfinder so if you wear glasses, wear them. It runs off 2 AA batteries, lithium ones are best. There is an Easy mode, a full automatic mode and Program, Aperture-priority, Shutter-priority and full Manual modes as well as scene modes and a low-res video mode. Thus you get as much control or help as you want. You can also have manual focusing for difficult scenes. The lens has Image Stabilisation available and this works well. As well as control over metering and focus you can choose how the camera processes the jpeg results. As well as choosing vivid, normal, sepia and monochrome you can define a custom setting for contrast, sharpness and saturation. The camera produces good pictures with all the noise or lack of it that goes with a very small sensor and it  captures fine detail well. There’s a clarity to the results that is unusual in such an inexpensive camera. This one is the fourth and thus outside the essential trio but I would not really be without it. It is still available new in the UK from Camerabox for £100.

The low-light Queen

fuji_finepixf31fd

This is the famous FujiFilm FinePix F31fd. Announced in September 2006 it was the successor to the F30 which was a camera with astoundingly low-noise results in low light conditions. That it was only 6.3 megapixels obviously helped as did also the sensor which had two receptors per pixel and the processing engine which in the F31 had been enhanced. Capable of shooting at ISO 3200, the F31 has surprisingly good results at ISO 800 with even ISO 1600 acceptable for small prints albeit with some visible chromatic noise. It also has a full VGA video mode at 30 fps and I have made short videos in very low light conditions. Unfortunately it is no longer available for sale new, although some may be obtainable refurbished via the Fuji UK web site. Fuji’s subsequent compacts, while very proficient in other areas have not achieved the same standard of clean files. It is also a very elegant camera certainly small enough for a shirt pocket but metal rather than plastic with a small (by today’s standards) 2.5″ LCD and no viewfinder. There’s an “easy Auto” mode, an Auto mode with minimal settings available and an aperture/shutter priority mode which is really only a gesture to manual control. There are scene modes that are well thought out. Oddly no battery charger is supplied and you have to charge the battery when in the camera via the DC power supply although if you have one of the Uniross  “magic” chargers this will charge a battery separately. It is easy to use the camera one-handed and it is very useful for candid shots with or without the flash. The flash is properly metered too. With a zoom range (35mm equivalent) of 36-108mm it is hardly the most versatile camera (and it doesn’t have image stabilisation) but for what it does well it is essential.

“All you ever need”

panasonic_dmczs1This is the Panasonic TZ6 (or ZS1 if you live in the USA) and it is the cheaper sibling of the TZ7 that has a slightly larger LCD and a HD video mode. Normally I wouldn’t be seen dead with one of these but then neither would several pros I know who have one too. It has a Leica-badged lens from (35mm equivalent) 25-300mm with image stabilisation and I do have to say that there are no great distortions or other nasties in that huge 12x range and the lens is crisp with good colour. My trusty Ricoh R4 expired when hitting a concrete floor some 10 feet below me and this is its replacement. The R4 had a 28-200mm lens with pretty minimal user-adjustments but more than is available on the TZ6. This is a “nanny knows best” camera and it does seem to do that. The “intelligent auto” mode produces good results and will switch between “iModes” as required. There is a “normal” mode that allows a little user intervention. For example the color mode setting gives a choice of standard, natural, vivid, b/w, sepia, cool and warm. There is a plethora of scene modes, 27 all told, that are useful. You can record a voice clip with any shot and there is a “text” mode that captures low-res shots to the camera’s internal “clipboard” memory. In summary, this is a pure point and shoot camera that does its own thing and does it really rather well. It is available in the UK from most mail-order stores for a touch under £200.

A Four Star, Photographer’s Pocket Camera

ricoh_gx100I didn’t say that first. It was the title of Michael Reichmann’s review of the Ricoh GX100 on his site The Luminous Landscape. Note the four star rather than five star. If it were five there would be no need for another similar sized camera. Hence the three preceding it in this write-up. This is a great attempt to produce something that could emulate a Leica but with a really good zoom lens. And it largely does that. Unfortunately for an upgrade of this camera Ricoh didn’t address its few shortcomings but produced the GX200 with more megapixels, more noise and less camera as a result. But then Ricoh is like that.

The excellent lens has an effective range of 24-72mm at f2.6 to f4.4 and has almost no distortion. An optional extra is a wide-angle converter that converts the range to effectively 19-52mm, again with very little distortion at the widest setting. There is also a tele converter that doubles the focal length but I doubt the value of it. One wishes that the aperture at the tele end was f3.3 instead of f4.4. There is an optional electronic viewfinder that is articulated in the vertical plane (good for macro) and although this is not high resolution and fairly dim it really enhances the usefulness of the camera. There is an auto mode that I would imagine few owners use as this is a camera that provides full control of metering and gradation as well as saving shots in RAW mode. Aspect ratios are 4:3, 3:2 and 1:1 (but no 16:9)  and you can save in resolutions from 10 mp down to less than 1 mp.

While the zoom will move smoothly through the entire range you can set it to “step” so you get 24, 28, 35, 50, 72 which is very useful. Focus is multi-area, spot or manual and you can set a fixed focus “snap” at the hyperfocal distance for instant candid shots. Macro shots can be as close as 1cm. There is  a movie mode and several scene modes none of which I have tried.

This is not a camera for low-light use and although the flash performance is adequate any of the trio above will get you better flash shots. I believe it to be the best compact camera for daylight shots of street scenes, landscape and (with or without the wide converter) for architecture inside and out. Where museums allow photography you will find it just right for non-flash shots of painting and sculpture. The DPReview review sums it up as “It’s a camera that only really shines in the hands of someone with the photographic experience to overcome its limitations, to make the most of the almost peerless access to controls, and to be prepared to put the work in both at the shooting stage and quite possibly in post processing.” This is why it is clearly a Photographer’s Pocket Camera. I’ve recently seen a two-page shot by Joe Cornish in Photography Monthly using one. It is still available new in the UK for £200 without the viewfinder kit and £260 with it. The GX200 which in my view is not as good is £260/£340.


An “L” of a disappointment

August 1, 2009

It’s an undeniable fact that Canon makes good digital cameras. The present range competes well in the market and excels with at least two of them. I have used Canon equipment since around 1988 and the cameras have never disappointed. Currently I have an EOS 33 film camera and 1000D and 5D Mk II digital cameras. The 1000D has a special purpose which is not as a back-up to the 5D II; a Fuji S5 Pro with Nikon lenses fulfils that function.

I upgraded from the first 5D to the Mk II a few months ago and persuaded myself that it would be a good idea to buy it with the “kit” 24-105 f4 L IS lens as I had heard good things about this lens mainly on the fredmiranda.com web site. I had never owned a Canon “L” lens. My Canon prime lenses are of the “cooking” variety and I am quite happy with the 24/2.8, 50/1.8 and 135/2.8 as I am with Tamron’s 90/2.8 macro. I also use a couple of Leica R primes with an adapter. For zoom lenses I tested Sigma EX against comparable Canon ones and decided on Sigma so I have the 12-24 and an f2.8 trio of 20-40, 24-70 and 70-200. From film days I already had the Canon  28-135 f3.5-5.6 IS. The Sigma 24-70 is the least wonderful of my trio so I thought that I could part with it after getting the Canon 24-105.

Well, plainly Canon isn’t going to sell a lens with an “L” designation for over £940 that could be considered bad and it does OK. Centre sharpness throughout is good, contrast is fine, colour is pretty good, it focuses well, the IS saves about three stops and it is excellent mechanically. But it is by no means a stellar performer. It is best from 70-105mm stopped down a bit but then that range is covered by my Sigma 70-200 that is a stellar performer even wide open at f2.8. At 24mm it vignettes noticeably, has unacceptable barrel distortion and there’s a touch of coloured fringing too. So if I’m going to be taking shots at the short end of this lens I’m going to take along my Sigma 20-40 as well which means two heavy lenses in the bag, defeating the object of having one do-it-all lens. OK, I do know how easy it is to alter lens distortions in post-processing and the 5D II can eliminate the vignetting for in-camera jpegs but that isn’t really the point.

I’ve found that I get the best shots from equipment that I like (and this may be a circular argument because it could be that I like the equipment because I get the best shots from it) and it’s not necessarily the best equipment that does that. I’ve always liked the Canon 28-135. When I am asked to do things like receptions I usually take it along. My copy is a good one. It’s a damn’ sight better at the wide end than the 24-105 and I would say that corner sharpness is about the same as the 24-105 until 80mm or so when the 24-105 gets the edge. Not everybody has the same impression;  here is a link to an article by someone who upgraded from the 28-135 to the 24-105. But, with the older lens costing a quarter of the price of the new one, is it really worth it?

I think not. It’s not an exciting lens and is a disappointment. Perhaps I might grow to love it. Perhaps it might impress me more on a body with an APS-C sensor. I went back to look at the user reviews on fredmiranda.com and discovered that it was the users with 40D or 50D bodies that gave it a high score and those of us with full-frame bodies that largely found it wanting.